Q: My 2004 Toyota Camry SE's MacPherson struts, I'm told by a mechanic, have to be replaced because the puck-like knuckles are worn out.
The car has 110,000 km and he estimates the cost, including aftermarket complete replacement of the struts, of about $1,000.
I was shocked. He said he has replaced MacPherson struts on numerous other makes and models at or about these kilometres.
I contacted the local dealer and the employee said they don't stock any struts at this time, indicating few replacements.
I can't find information anywhere else about the approximate life expectancy of a MacPherson strut.
Technician Tony Prochilo replies:
I will have to assume the puck-like knuckles you are referring to are the upper strut mount/bearing assemblies.
Most technicians will recommend replacing the MacPherson strut assembly as well as the upper strut mount at the same time in order to save you the extra labour cost if in the future the MacPherson struts fail.
At 110,000 km, the front coil springs may be worn and the shock absorber (if not leaking at this point) may begin to leak. You will also require an alignment with each repair, if performed separately.
If you feel that your Camry may not need the recommended repair, I would recommend getting a second opinion by another repair facility.
Q: I own a 2004 Honda Accord EX five-speed manual, mated to a 2.4 L four-cylinder with 173,000 km.
Ever since I bought the car about a year ago, I have noticed that when shifting between gears, the clutch pedal squeaks and creaks. This is prominent when you depress the pedal and upon return to the rest position.
After looking this up, I have noticed that this is a common problem with Hondas and their clutches, with even a few technical service bulletins coming from them, but none that include my VIN.
I found that if I spray the shaft on the back of the clutch pedal every now and then with lube, it quiets it for a few days.
My mechanic has mentioned the only solid solution would be to replace the clutch master cylinder. Any other suggestions on the cause and possible solution to the noise that is less heavy on the wallet than all-out replacement?
Technician David Gerson replies:
Fortunately, the squeak is external and not inside the gearbox as is also quite common. As you have been able to temporarily eliminate the noise by lubricating with a penetrating oil, the problem is almost resolved.
I suggest you purchase an aerosol spray that has white grease or anti-seizure compound in it. This way it will not dry up in a few days and start squeaking again.
I doubt the necessity for a new master cylinder. It may be necessary to remove the old cylinder to access inside the protective dust boot (special lubricant compatible with brake fluid only to be applied) to lubricate properly.
The downside is that you might have difficulty in purchasing this type of product as it is not readily available across the counter and is quite costly.
Service Centre technician David Gerson is an independent garage operator.
Tony Prochilo is an automotive instructor at Centennial College, Scarborough.
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