If all else fails, replace Hyundai Sonata's pads to silence... | Wheels.ca
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Published On Sat Jul 18 2009

If all else fails, replace Hyundai Sonata's pads to silence crunchy brakes

Q: In July 2008 I installed new front rotors and brake pads on my 2006 Hyundai Sonata.

About two months later, it developed a "crunching" sound when the brakes were applied, and then only at low speeds.

This sound only occurs after the car has travelled a short distance and the wheels have "warmed up."

There are no other problems with my brakes – they work well. I have ABS and ESC. I had it checked by the dealership that installed the brakes and rotors, and they can't find a problem. I've had it checked by other mechanics, all to no avail.

Is it possible I have defective rotors or brake pads? I don't know the brands that were installed. The dealership did not offer to change the rotors or pads, although they admit that the sound does come from the front braking system.

Technician Tom Zekveld replies:

A careful brake inspection and service is required here. The noise didn't happen immediately after the brakes were replaced, indicating they worked satisfactorily for a while.

Brake noises can be caused by several factors, such as pad material, rust accumulation on the rotors, worn caliper mechanism, dirt or brake dust, inferior parts, or sticking brake pads in the caliper assemblies. If, after an inspection, the tech is satisfied that everything is in good operating condition, you may consider a different brake pad.

Hyundai has issued a technical service bulletin about a moaning noise from the rear disc brakes when applied during turns. They are suggesting an upgraded brake pad that will "improve" the condition.

In the end, if no fault is found, you should weigh the cost of a new set of pads compared with living with the offending noise. Personally, if I found the noise offensive I would replace the pads.

Q: I have a 2001 Toyota Camry CE six-cylinder, bought in November 2000. Since 2006, I have been having trouble when braking – the gas pedal sticks.

Nobody at Toyota can figure it out and mechanics are at a loss.

Do I dump the car or fix it? I found an article online about speed control recall, so I phoned the service manager and he will take the route of replacing cables.

Technician Tom Zekveld replies:

Please do not second-guess this advice. If you have a vehicle with an intermittent sticking throttle condition and there is a suspicion of faulty throttle cable or cables, you must replace them.

In addition to the cables, ask a trusted technician to inspect the throttle body for wear. If it's serviceable, follow up with a throttle body service and base idle set up. The throttle body can accumulate PCV system deposits that may interfere with the throttle blade return and or cause throttle binding at idle.

Q: My car is a 1993 Dodge Shadow with 148,000 km on it and only used for pleasure. I would like to keep it for a couple of years more.

When I insert the key to start the car and the stick-shift is in park, most of the time the key won't move and I can't start the car.

I have been informed that in order to start the car, I should move the stick shift to neutral and then start the key – the car starts right away. Sometimes the car starts right away, even when it is in park.

My mechanic said there is a lot of work involved that would be costly – it is better to start the car using the above method. Your suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Technician Tony Prochilo replies:

A vehicle of this age and mileage may have worn transmission shift cable components – specifically a rubber grommet that attaches the shift cable from the shifter assembly inside your Shadow to a shift linkage located on the transmission.

Another possible cause may be as simple as a misadjusted shift linkage assembly.

I would find a repair facility that will check these components and also have access to the proper adjustment procedures.

There are specific adjustment procedures that must be followed for vehicles equipped with either a column shift or floor shift to ensure you can start your Shadow in both park and neutral, not just neutral.

If you continue to ignore this concern, you may find these components may wear, and more and more frequently your Shadow will fail to start in park.

 

Service Centre technician Tom Zekveld is an independent garage operator.

Tony Prochilo is an automotive instructor at Centennial College, Scarborough.

Email your mechanical questions to wheels@thestar.ca.

Letters may be edited.

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