Q: A neighbour has a 2008 GMC Sierra diesel truck, which he idles after starting for up to 20 minutes in any type of weather. Is this necessary?
A: I suspect the driver merely wishes to warm up/cool down the interior, depending on the season, before departing.
Regardless of fuel type, engines generally warm up best by driving. Idling for long periods wastes fuel and increases oil contamination. (Hybrids automatically shut down rather than idle.)
Additionally, police warn against leaving idling vehicles unattended, typically with doors unlocked, as these are easy targets of opportunity for thieves.
In Toronto, a bylaw states that idling for more than three minutes in a given 60-minute period can get you a ticket with a maximum fine of $5,000.
The bylaw, however, does allow idling during extreme outdoor temperatures to ensure adequate heating or cooling inside an occupied vehicle.
Q: Is it possible to appeal a traffic conviction without paying the fine first?
A: Malcolm Higgins of Tickettalk.ca Legal Services, a Toronto paralegal firm, replies:
There is a process of "recognizance," which allows a person to file an appeal without paying the fine. The court may order a partial payment, but it is essentially a promise to faithfully and diligently follow up the appeal. You must appear before a judge and do this in Toronto. In out-of-town cases, you can file an appeal form entitled "application to appeal without paying the fine."
If you fail to follow through on your appeal, however, you may end up owing much more than the original fine. For example, a $5,000 fine usually requires an equal $5,000 recognizance. If you don't proceed with the appeal, i.e. file papers and show up in Appeals Court, the court may order the recognizance to be enforced as a fine – basically doubling it. This is unusual, but it does happen.
As for the costs for transcripts needed to process your appeal, these funds are always lost no matter what.
Q: Is it better to connect wiring for auto accessories with crimp tabs or by soldering?
I've tried both ways, but find the thin wires often snap right where the wire insulation was cut.
A: Either method is acceptable, if done properly.
However, it sounds like your problem isn't the method of joining wires, but rather that you may be inadvertently nicking the wire when stripping off the insulation. This creates a weak spot in the metal, which can then break due to bending or vibration.
To prevent this, try a self-adjusting wire stripper. Vise-Grip makes one, and there are a few others around.
Basically, this tool pinches and pulls the insulation off the tip of the wire rather than cutting it – thereby eliminating the risk of nicks and subsequent breakage.
Vise-Grip's self-adjusting wire stripper, about $25, is rated for 10-24 gauge wire and also incorporates a wire cutter and crimper in the design. Besides not nicking wires, I find the self-sizing jaws are a real time saver.
For specific applications, "no-strip" connectors may be available.
Metal probes inside this device penetrate the insulation of inserted wires and complete the electrical junction without any cutting or stripping.
This is particularly useful for tapping into existing circuits you wish to remain intact, such as with add-on trailer wiring kits that tie into your vehicle's taillight system.
Email your non-mechanical questions
to Eric Lai at wheels@thestar.ca. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.